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Original, hand-pressed copper
plate etchings are some of my favorite prints to make. In order to produce
the solid lines in these images, I coat a sheet of copper with a waxy
substance, and then carve the design through the wax with a sharp needle.
The half-tone shading is created by using an airbrush to spray a dot
pattern of wax. I then take the waxed plate and soak it in a bath of
corrosive salts. (Traditionlly printmakers used acid, but this newer
technique is non-toxic and equally effective.) The salt eats into the
exposed areas of metal, recreating my wax design in the surface of the
copper. I then rub the cleaned, waxless plate with thick ink, working
it into the groves and half-tone pock marks. I wipe the surface of the
plate clean, using a special cloth and then run my plate through a hand-cranked
press with a sheet of damp paper placed on top of it. The damp paper
sucks the ink out of the groves in the plate, transferring my image
to the paper. You can identify an authentic etching by the slightly
recessed edges around the image. This is where the press stretched the
damp paper over the edges of the plate, permanently embossing the paper.
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As the name implies, a Collagraph is a print made from a collage.This
assemblage of cardboard, fabric, plastic and other textured items is
then treated with a water resistant coating of gesso or shellac and
inked in the same manner as an etching. That is, the thick ink is first
rubbed into every crack and crevice, and then wiped gently from the
surface, leaving only the indentations inky. The plate is run through
a press with damp paper and often leaves an elaborately embossed and
colorful image.
The puzzle-piece technique which I use in many of the prints on this
site is created by first printing an etched copper plate image onto
a piece of mat board. I then cut this reverse-image mat print into several
puzzle-like pieces. Each piece is rolled with various colors of ink
and then I reassemble the puzzle on the press bed. First I run my wet
paper through the press with this color collage, then I run the same
piece through a second time with the copper plate etching. This second
run adds the shading and detail to the collagraph's blocks of color.
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Lithographs come in many varieties, but the basics behind them are
similar. They are always printed off of a flat (no relief) surface which
has been chemically treated to allow certain areas the ability to accept
ink and other areas to reject it.
One traditional method which I prefer involves using a large, perfectly
flat chunk of limestone as the printing surface. After using a heavy,
handled disk called a levigator to level the surface, I draw or paint
my design onto the stone using a greasy crayon, paint or ink. I then
apply a series of chemicals to the stone itself, causing the greasy
design to become hyper attractive to ink and the undrawn areas to become
super water absorbant. As you know, water is highly grease repellant,
so as I roll an inked roller over the absolutly textureless surface
of my wet stone, the ink only sticks to my image. By carefully counting
the number of ink passes I have made over the stone before each printing,
I can keep a uniform richness to my image as I print. The lithographic
press scrapes the image onto dry paper, using the preassure of a sliding
bar, rather than a roller.
Specially designed metal plates can be used in much the same way as
stones and are more popular now due to their ease of use a mobility
(my stones weighed about 300 pounds each and had to be moved with a
small fork lift.)
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| Serigraphs are the oldest
type of printmaking. Some of the earliest cave paintings we find are of
paint blown over a hand pressed to the wall. From stencils to silkscreens,
any time you mask one area and paint in or around it, you are using this
method of printing. For my serigraphs, I do use a framed piece of silk
which I block out with a photo sensitive chemical that hardens when exposed
to light. By cutting out pieces of photoresistant material and placing
them on the screen, I can make "holes" where ink can be squeegeed
through my screen. For each color in a picture I create a separate screen.
I then start with the palest color and use a hard rubber spatula to squish
the ink through the open mesh of my screen onto each sheet of paper. The
first round always looks strange. maybe I will have only a pair of yellow
eyes staring out at me from every page. But as I progress through color
after color, the images start to build and become recognizable. After
10 or so colors, I ended up with the image to the right.
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